A Tale of Two Mountains
by Brian Fowler
Jackson Hole and Grand Targhee are Ideal Ski/Snowboard Hot Spots
If you quiz anyone about which ski area in the U.S. has the most difficult terrain, somewhere among the answers you are sure to find Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Located in the heart of the Teton Mountains with a top to bottom vertical rise of 4,100 feet, it sure seemed like a great place to visit. Since few areas can captivate skiers for six straight days, we decided to add another location to our itinerary, Grand Targhee, which is located on the flipside of the Tetons. Just weeks before our visit, a skier broke the world record for a jump off a cliff on skis by launching himself off a 245-foot cliff at Targhee. Our destination secured, we set off for Wyoming, the state with rodeo horses on its license plate, not skiers.
Once in Wyoming, what we found was a contrast in ski resorts. Jackson Hole was all about being big and steep and moving skiers around the mountain. On the other hand, Grand Targhee catered to locals from across the border in Idaho, the state once famous for potatoes, and more recently for Napoleon Dynamite. What we discovered was one mountain range, yet two totally different ski experiences.
Jackson Hole
Although the tram is labeled Jackson Hole, the base area is known as Teton Village. The drive up, as well as the final approach before landing at the airport, is extremely impressive. Gigantic, jagged snow-covered mountains in all directions set the backdrop for some great skiing. The blinking "full" parking lot signs and steady flow of buses reiterated the numbers game that Jackson Hole Corporation was playing. Once up on the mountain and away from the lift lines, the area took on a splendor that I’ve only experienced at a few other resorts. Jagged rock peaks jutted up out of the snow and towards the clouds. Two of my coworkers came along on this trip, one who had never been west of the Mississippi. His jaw dropped and perspiration formed on his forehead as we disembarked at mid-mountain. In the distance, Rendezvous Mountain peaked out of the clouds. It was obvious we weren’t at Alpine Valley in Chesterland anymore.
Throughout our week, we had snow every day but one, not bad for late March skiing, and the area lived up to its reputation with plenty of difficult terrain. A variety of open bowls were there to be enjoyed when the light was good, but we also spent a lot of time in the trees, forced there by poor visibility. Some of the black diamond runs ran almost top to bottom, making for some real thigh burners. By the second day, we figured out the lift lines and committed to taking the tram to the summit; by coincidence we were in Jackson Hole the last week the tram was open. At the end of 2006, management plans to begin replacing the resort’s icon with a state-of-the-art, $25 million tram.
The ride up the longest continual vertical rise of any ski lift in North America was spectacular and when we stepped off, we weren’t disappointed. Through the blowing snow, the whole Teton Valley sprawled out before us. The walk to the trailhead was like the final 200 yards atop Mount Everest. When we bent over to buckle in, we knew we were at 10,450 feet above sea level. We kept our stay short and dropped into Rendezvous Bowl, then traversed over Corbet’s Couloir for a look at an off-the-charts, double black diamond chute. It was extremely impressive, but not worth breaking any bones over. We worked our way around through the bowls, down the chutes, through the woods and eventually 4,100 feet back down to the lodge at the base.
Throughout the week, we had the chance to explore the mountain and find many new trails and bowls to try. Grooming efforts at Jackson were limited to a few main runs, so we were constantly looking further and further off trail for untracked powder hits.
On our fourth day at Jackson Hole, clouds gave way to clear blue skies. For the first time we got a clear view of the Tetons in their entire splendor. I took advantage of the clear skies, loaded up my paraglider and took the tram to the top for an aerial view of the majestic landscape. It was my highest mountain launch and my first time flying at a ski area.
The launch from 10,400 feet was a piece of cake and I had the whole sky to myself. The ride down was clear and smooth. I climbed out over the base area with about 2,000 feet of altitude to burn. I caught a glimpse below me of a huge moose standing in the freshly groomed, cross country ski trails. About 20 minutes later I was gliding in for a landing next to our car in the parking lot. Not a bad way to get down the mountain.
Grand Targhee
Located about a two-hour drive from Jackson Hole, on the other side of the Tetons, it takes some effort to get to Grand Targhee. It seems a little ridiculous to leave one of the premier resorts in the U.S. to go to what most people describe as a "locals resort," but the way I see it is that you only have so many ski days in your lifetime, you might as well try as many areas as possible. The drive into the village at Grand Targhee was the exact opposite of Jackson Hole. The parking area was as small as a grocery store lot and no buses were in sight. What we discovered was only one place to buy lift tickets, one choice for a lift from the bottom, and just five lifts total in the area compared to 11 at Jackson Hole.
After negotiating the lift lines at Jackson Hole, the lack of people was a welcome sight. At times, we did not see any other skiers, on the lifts or on the slopes. The terrain was mostly intermediate with some black diamond options. Off the trails and through the woods, there were plenty of challenges to be had, and at the top of the mountain was a snow cat waiting for skiers willing to fork out extra cash for a backcountry experience.
The trails themselves were well groomed from top to bottom, a welcome relief from the chunked up powder we experienced at Jackson. Even the day after a dump of snow we were still finding untracked powder hits at Targhee.
Wyoming welcomes wildlife lovers
Six days of skiing in the Tetons was a great way to end the ski season, with two completely different mountain experiences all in view of the most spectacular mountains in the U.S. In addition to the skiing, the western side of Wyoming has a lot to offer anyone who loves the outdoors. This is the place to visit for all kinds of wildlife viewing; we saw our first moose as we exited the airport parking lot.
Ninety-five percent of the land in this area is owned by the government as national park and forest lands. Turn left out of the airport and you quickly enter the Grand Teton National Park and just 60 miles up the road you’ll enter Yellowstone National Park from the south. Add in a huge elk refuge and a bunch of forest service lands and you can understand why animal sightings are so prevalent. Moose, elk, bison, sheep, coyote and eagles are just a few of the animals you can see right outside your car window. Great skiing and wonderful wildlife made our Wyoming adventure well worth the trip.
For more information
Jackson Hole Ski Area
www.jacksonhole.com
Grand Targhee Ski Area
www.grandtarghee.com
Grand Teton National Park
www.nps.gov/grte
Yellowstone National Park
www.nps.gov/yell
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